Proenza Schouler's SS24 Collection: A Showcase at New York Fashion Week

Proenza Schouler Spring Summer 2024 collection fashion show

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the creative duo behind Proenza Schouler, have introduced a fresh monogram design, a stylized PS that more closely resembles an infinity symbol than traditional letters. This distinctive monogram is currently featured in an online auction by Phillips, rendered in black acrylic on paper, with an estimated value of $10,000 to $15,000. Interestingly, this valuation stands in stark contrast to the adjacent artwork by Ellsworth Kelly, which has a current bid of $1,600.

During today's fashion show, held at Phillips's Park Avenue headquarters, the designers subtly incorporated their new monogram. It graced the chest of a cozy cashmere sweater and took the form of brass hardware on sleek black loafers. Surprisingly, there were more instances of the monogram stenciled on the sidewalks surrounding the auction house than on the actual runway.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez appear to be entering a phase of subtlety in their creative journey. During a preview in their showroom, they reiterated their recent stance on rejecting the pursuit of seasonal novelty in favor of refining their established signatures—evolving rather than radically altering their approach. McCollough commented, "We finished the fall show, and we knew right away that we really wanted to continue its spirit. To have that board of women we pulled together last season be the starting point and just kind of riff off a lot of the same ideas in a spring context."

The two collections showcased today engaged in a meaningful dialogue with each other. It began with the selection of celebrity models. Chloë Sevigny, who opened the previous season, was succeeded by Natalie Laura Mering, professionally known as Weyes Blood, who also composed an original soundtrack for the show. Weyes Blood donned a white single-breasted three-button jacket paired with black trousers, exuding an understated and minimalistic vibe, accented only by glossy red nail polish and sheer black stockings worn with strappy kitten heels. Other jackets were creatively tucked into waistbands, with utility belts threaded through belt loops.

McCollough and Hernandez appreciated the beauty of presenting bleached straight-leg jeans alongside a black leather coat adorned with straps hanging below the hem, inspired by equestrian elements. They also showcased a papery windbreaker-style jacket paired with a mesh tee. These pieces imbued the collection with a Helmut Lang-inspired aesthetic, in stark contrast to Peter Do's debut collection for the brand. However, they balanced these plainer looks with special pieces that exemplify their commitment to craftsmanship, such as mesh dresses crafted from hand-tacked ribbon and delicate separates adorned with "broken glass" embroidery.

As a nod to the brand's initials, Proenza Schouler reintroduced their iconic PS1 handbag, now featuring supple leather and leather-covered hardware. Its understated coolness seamlessly complements the rest of the collection, highlighting Proenza Schouler's dedication to timeless elegance and creative refinement.