Just two years ago, Peter Do made his runway debut after initially showcasing his eponymous brand off the traditional fashion calendar for several years. Now, he finds himself stepping into the shoes of one of the most renowned and influential designers of the past quarter-century.
Helmut Lang's departure from his eponymous label in 2005, at the peak of his career, left an indelible mark. His ability to infuse subversion with elegance, elevating everyday items like T-shirts, jeans, and army parkas to the realm of high fashion while incorporating bondage references into his lean suiting, encapsulated the epitome of coolness during that era. Lang's work continues to be timeless, consistently modern rather than retro, making him a revered figure among his peers. Peter Do himself has cited Lang as one of his heroes, a fascination that may have been nurtured during his time at Céline but was initially sparked during his teenage years in suburban Philadelphia, thanks to Tumblr.
In the years following Fast Retailing's acquisition of the Helmut Lang brand, it underwent various transformations, including a one-off collection designed by Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air for Spring 2018. These changes did not diminish Lang's stature—he has since focused on art in Long Island—but the recent collections lost a certain sense of direction. Peter Do's appointment appears poised to reinvigorate the brand. "The thing that I react really strongly to is work that almost looks like it's always been there. I felt like good design is a design that feels like it's always been there," he remarked on Vogue's The Run-Through podcast.
Do applied his meticulous attention to detail to the company's history. For instance, the recurring yellow taxi cab print was a nod to Lang's pioneering decision to advertise on the tops of taxi cabs—a move considered unconventional in high fashion at the time. Additionally, the print served as a thematic backdrop for the poet and collaborator Ocean Vuong, whose poem adorned the venue's concrete floor. This poetic tribute harked back to the iconic Jenny Holzer installation that graced the original Helmut Lang store at 80 Greene Street. Vuong's words also appeared on button-down shirts, worn in reverse so that they could be read as models walked by: "Your car was my first room / Our clothes on the floor like stepped-on flowers."
Do also demonstrated a firm grasp of Lang's tailoring, from flat-front natural waist trousers to androgynous yet subtly distinct jackets and crombie coats, all crafted from fabrics that are of the highest quality. The seat belt straps crisscrossing the torso and passing through belt loops were direct nods to the brand's archives, referencing the subculture of bondage clubs. However, remove these straps, and the suits seamlessly transition to the mainstream fashion world.
The new Helmut Lang's potential lies in offering high-fashion suits at accessible, non-luxury prices. Do emphasized a desire "to open up the dialogue to a wider group of people... and for the clothes to have longevity without being super expensive." He clarified that he would not have accepted the position if the brand's prices matched those of his eponymous label. This strategic differentiation between the two brands reflects Do's broader vision and business acumen, proving that while he may be starry-eyed about his designer hero, he is grounded and forward-thinking in his approach to the industry.
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