In his milestone tenth year as Creative Director of Coach, Stuart Vevers delves into his personal archives to curate a captivating Spring/Summer 2024 collection. This collection is a heartfelt reflection of his time in the vibrant metropolis of New York and his unwavering dedication to transforming Coach into the quintessential American leather house. Vevers draws upon his own memories of the city that embraced him, where he forged a family, and where he channeled his passion for sustainability amidst the global challenge of climate change.
New York City, an eternal muse for countless designers, once again takes center stage in Coach's Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The illustrious New York Public Library serves as a poignant backdrop for the show, attended by Vevers' family, marking a deeply sentimental moment for the British designer. This iconic location not only embodies a significant fashion landmark but also symbolizes the city where Vevers found love, built a family, and devoted himself to solidifying Coach's legacy as "America's House of Leather."
Vevers' unwavering commitment to sustainability and combating climate change has continued to define his collections, incorporating innovative materials such as upcycled leather and denim, regenerated cotton, and leather alternatives. The presence of an anti-leather protester at the show, though ironic, underscored Vevers' respect for diverse perspectives.
As Vevers reminisces about his journey, his aim is not to replicate the past but to evolve upon the foundation he has meticulously built over the years. The Spring/Summer 2024 collection explores a series of daring experiments in construction and silhouette. It commences with a black slip dress meticulously crafted from pieced-together leather, showcasing exposed stitches. This striking ensemble is complemented by moto boots and a distinctive rounded bowling bag. Vevers explains that this bag has no archival reference; it's a pure embodiment of what he envisions a Coach bag should represent.
Throughout Vevers' tenure at Coach, his fascination with oversized leather jackets has been a hallmark. This collection introduces a single-breasted blazer elegantly paired with a mesh turtleneck and pointy jelly flats—a chic ensemble that exemplifies his unique vision. Additionally, fringed suede jackets and upcycled denim jackets featuring let-out hems as trim details grace the collection.
While Coach is renowned for its leather craftsmanship, the highlight of the evening lies in the introduction of soft suiting meticulously crafted from cotton or wool. These fabrics have been overused, washed, and subtly "aged" to attain a state of perfection. A mossy green suit, featuring an oversized, slouchy jacket and a matching slim maxi skirt, stands out as a defining piece, signifying the continuation of a silhouette Vevers explored in the previous season.
Vevers' aspiration was to infuse each piece with a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of his younger days dancing at the Pyramid club or dining at the iconic Donohue's steakhouse—a place teeming with unforgettable characters and seemingly frozen in time since the 1960s. This sentiment is artfully captured in a series of t-shirts, short-sleeve sweatshirts, and sweatpants adorned with the Donohue's logo, creating a delightful contrast with the collection's unmistakably collegiate vibes.
COMMENTS